From Uplyme to the Cobb, Lyme Regis: a Winter Walk

The walk along the River Lim valley is quite delightful and is rich in wildlife. A good way to enjoy it is to leave the car in Uplyme, or take the No. 31 bus from Axminster, alight at the Talbot Arms and walk down Church Street to the riverside path, through the wrought iron gates. On two sunny but cold December morning walks, one week apart, I noted 37 bird species.

The morning is usually the best time to see birds, particularly in winter when they are intent on feeding, and in spring when male birds are singing to attract a mate and to protect territory. The key bird to look out for is the Dipper and its tell-tale white droppings, clearly visible on the larger stones in the river. The fact that it regularly breeds here is an indication that the water quality is good. On my second walk I heard the repeated Dipper alarm call as I approached the bridge by Middle Mill. Looking downstream I could see the distraught bird, calling and flapping its wings. It was an evocative scene with mist rising from the river and weak sunlight filtering through the trees, reflecting off the water. It seemed an age before I noticed the enormous bundle of fluffed up feathers perched on a bough, just above the river. It was a Buzzard! Not a real threat to the Dipper, but small birds instinctively give warning displays when birds of prey appear. More easily seen are the Grey Wagtails with their gorgeous canary-yellow undersides. These birds are insect eaters and extend their feeding into riverside gardens.

A real bonus this past winter, seen by many walkers, was the Kingfisher. These birds and their young disperse from their breeding sites during the winter and take up temporary residence in coastal areas and river estuaries that offer ice-free feeding opportunities. On two occasions I saw the Kingfisher from the Lynch and once in Lyme Bay, feeding from the rocks at the Buddle mouth. My best views were from the Cobb. Around high tide, I watched it dive several times, coming up with a fish on each occasion. It looked dead easy! People often express surprise that Kingfishers will hunt around the coast but in winter they will search out the most rewarding fishing spots.

Whilst on the Cobb I went in search of the regularly over-wintering Purple Sandpipers. The best chance of seeing them is an hour or two either side of high tide, when they come to the Cobb to roost, usually facing the sun — very sensible! On my first walk there were eight birds on the rock armour and on the second walk I saw eleven birds, roosting on the west-facing Cobb wall. I just think it is magical that these delightful waders, with yellow legs, speckled plumage and a dash of red on their slightly down-curved bills, arrive in Britain each winter from their frozen breeding grounds in Iceland and Arctic coasts and mountains. As the tide falls they probe for small molluscs amongst the weed on the exposed rocks.  

The other obvious but unpretentious bird to be seen at this time of year around the Cobb, Monmouth Beach and even in Broad Street, is the Rock Pipit. They are easily dismissed as ‘little brown jobs’ but I love them. They are so perky and confiding in their busy search for insects and, in winter, seeds. They have fine bills, streaky breasts and pale undersides. They look very similar to Meadow Pipits but are a little darker, especially their legs, which contrast with the pinkish legs of the Meadow Pipit.

Returning to the riverside walk, most members of the tit family can be seen, including Marsh Tit. Long-tailed Tits are everywhere at the moment and are doing really well. Nuthatches are plentiful and are often very vocal. Treecreepers are much more elusive. I had a great view of one feeding upside down on a slender branch, hanging by its feet and supported by a longish tail, which is thrust against the branch to provide balance. Treecreepers typically feed in a very systematic fashion, starting from the base of a tree trunk, working upwards, then flying to the base of the next tree to repeat the performance. Great Spotted Woodpeckers give their presence away by a loud ‘chip chip’ call and are usually probing into the bark of the more mature oak trees. Green Woodpeckers have long sticky tongues which they employ to feed on ants in the more open grassy areas and Goldcrests and Wrens are also resident.

Just up-stream from the Town Mill is the Lynch, with the mill leat beside the path and a vertical drop to the Lim on the other side. The old walls in this area are attractive with plants, some even flowering into winter. These include Yellow Corydalis from the Southern Alps and Mexican Fleabane (Erigeron karvinskianus). Before reaching the Lynch, by the old ford, is a old lime-mortared garden wall with three species of spleenwort: Wall Rue, Maidenhair Spleenwort and Harts Tongue Fern, all with spores on the underside of the leaves.

Unfortunately, a few of the introductions made by 19th C land owners have gone disastrously wrong. Three such plants can be seen on the walk. The most damaging is Japanese Knotweed which will propagate from the tiniest root fragment and is extremely difficult to get rid of. Another is Himalayan Balsam, colloquially known as Policeman’s Helmet. It is an annual which can grow up to 10 feet tall, as it does below the Lynch wall. The ripe seed pods burst to spread the seed considerable distances. During the winter the whole plant decays, leaving river banks unprotected by indigenous plants and subject to erosion. The Water Vole, which requires stable banks with grasses and other food plants, cannot survive in this environment and today there are very few of these delightful creatures present in Devon. The third alien thug is Giant Hogweed, growing up to around 12 feet tall, with highly irritant sap.

This walk makes a great day out at any time of year, particularly when combined with a pub lunch and, as with all walks, there is always something different to see. Enjoy it!